Mother Talkers

What does "organic" really mean?

Tue Mar 25, 2008 at 06:41:49 AM PDT

Recent investigation by a consumer advocacy group and a newspaper have found that organic labelling of food products in Australia is potentially misleading. Because there are multiple bodies – none governmental - that can provide certification for organic products, confusion abounds about what “organic” means in the Australian context. Forgive me for dabbling in areas that others, like Expat Chef, so expertly skewer; I can only look upon this as a concerned layperson.  I know that for myself, if I see a can of something like tomatoes or beans or what-have-you labelled “organic”, I automatically assume that somebody behind that label has assessed the contents and manufacture to certify that result. Sometimes yes, and sometimes no, this article shows:

[S]ome own-brand organic products bought by The Sun-Herald in Coles and Woolworths [NB: Coles and Woolworth’s are the two biggest chain supermarkets in Australia. Rachel]last week had none of the official logos. Woolworths' organic tinned tomatoes had no official certification, and the small print on Coles organic carrots stated "product in conversion to national standard" with no other explanation.

Five different products bought in Coles used five different organic logos.

The Sun-Herald also looked at the cost of organic goods compared with conventional products.

Organic carrots from Coles cost $3.48 for one kilogram compared with $1.68 for the conventionally produced equivalent.

In Woolworths, organic carrots were $3.98 compared with 94 cents for the mainstream equivalent.

Organic tinned tomatoes in Woolworths cost $1.15, compared with 58 cents for a "normal" tin.

And 500 grams of regular minced beef from Coles cost $5.55 compared with $7.33 for its organic rival.

  • ::

Like other Western countries, organic is a fast-growing niche in the agriculture business:

Research by The Sun-Herald reveals how buying "organic" can cost customers more than twice as much. The organics industry is one of the fastest growing in the Australian food and grocery sector, increasing by 30 per cent in the past year.

It is now worth about $400 million a year in the retail sector, the Government's Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation says.

There are eight organic certification bodies, which are overseen by the Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service.

We talk a lot about nutrition, consumer awareness and corporate opacity, and organic foods encapsulate all three themes and are issues regardless of country; there was a similar debate going on in the US, which led the USDA to create its own National Organic Program. I’m aware that there’s a fair amount of controversy over what led the USDA’s standards, but I’m not au fait with the issues – perhaps someone can educate me? To my mind, the UK has the best handle on the issue; the Soil Association, a non-governmental, non-profit foundation, monitors and certifies about 70% of all organic products that come into the UK, and charge licensing fees for those that want to receive their certification standards. It’s clear, it’s (thus far) reliable and uncorrupted and it’s unified. A brief description from this page on their site:

The Soil Association is a charity which promotes and develops sustainable approaches to food, farming and other products. We run a standards setting programme to write, update and modify the rules and regulations for organic production and processing as necessary. As a result of this rigorous standards setting process some of our standards (rules and regulations) are higher than those given by the law for organic food. The Soil Association is respected nationally and internationally for its integrity and pioneering work.

The Soil Association standards are set by a thorough and open process in which we actively seek input from a wide range of sources. Experts in the field, representatives from businesses and consumers, along with our own public supporters are all part of the process through which we research and set the rules for organic farming and processing.

Soil Association Certification Limited (SA Certification) is a wholly owned subsidiary of the organisation. SA Certification carries out inspections and awards organic certification to farms and businesses that meet our standards. You will notice our symbol and certification number (UK 5) on many items of organic produce. SA Certification is the oldest and most experienced organic certifier in the UK and licenses about 70% of the organic food on sale.

So what do you think, MTs? Should there be a single certifying body to provide clarity on what “organic” means? Do you buy organic products, and if so, what?  

Tags: organic, food, safety, standards, corporate obfuscation, Australia (all tags)

Permalink | 8 comments

  • not really (0 / 0)

    We buy much of our produce at a local farmers market, which is California certified organic.  I imagine most of it actually is organic, but the real reason we buy it is because it is fresh and local.  

    At the grocery store we don't bother with the organic labeled produce.  It's not fresh or local, and all we know about the growing conditions is that somebody somewhere claimed to be in compliance with USDA organic standards.  It's not easily verified, and I don't think anyone even tries unless there is a filed complaint.

  • Not really either (0 / 0)

    Like lyn, we work at buying local rather than organic - although that's hard in MN!

    For one thing, much of it is priced way out of our budget. For another, I don't really trust the label. So many companies are caught fudging the system. Also, many small farmers aren't able to afford the certification even if they are in compliance.

    • We buy inorganic produce too (0 / 0)

      This is to highlight (separately) my disgust with the term "organic". So just what does that mean? If you buy food that's not organic is it inorganic? Cyanide is "natural" (another word that makes me chuckle) is that "organic" too?

      It's unfortunate that the movement got started with this word, because it's really meaningless, like "lite". So anyone can make it say anything and eventually the whole movement goes down in confusion because no one trusts what they're getting. Well, and big corps make lots of money on the jacked up prices.

      I wish I had time to flesh this out a little more, but work calls. If I have time I'll post more later.
      [/rant]

      • real organic (0 / 0)

        There are a number of natural products that can be used to control crop pathogens.  And labs are trying to come up with new and interesting products to commercialize.  

        So some guys in a lab grow a batch of one of these natural control products and run it through a bunch of chemical assays.  The chemists notice there's a few major ingredients that they recognize.  They pull some purified chemicals off the shelves, mix them together in the right proportions, and spray it on whatever it was they're trying to cure.  Voila!  Plant is cured.  But the concoction is no longer "natural".

        So on the one hand you have a natural product.  It makes a gazillion different chemicals, as complicated living things do.  You could spray this on your crop and retain your organic certification.

        Or you could throw together a simpler chemical concoction.  It wouldn't have more than a tiny fraction of the chemicals made by the natural product, just the active ingredients.  But it's no longer "organic".

        Which fruit would you rather eat?

  • Of course! (0 / 0)

    There should be an independent, international regulatory oversight commission which certifies farms and products as being truly organic under a widely-agreed upon standard. The UN could run it. This agency could also bring to light the horrible factory-farm practices which are both ruining our environment and our health, and not really helping with feeding the world's population as much as they claim, i.e. genetically-modified seeds with patent protection that force family farmers out of business when the GE pollen drifts to their fields, or cause impoverished nations to keep buying GE seed because the plants produce sterile seeds by design. Monsanto is despicable.

  • Near finishing Omnivore's Dilemma... (0 / 0)

    and after reading that, it seems to me that local and ideally transparent (eg, can see the fields, animals, etc) is a better standard than the current organic standards.

    The current organic label is really a form of industrial organic. An example that comes to mind is "free range chicken". What that means is that the chicken has access to outdoors for some part of its life. In reality, what that means is that the chickens are kept in a coop very much like all other industrial chickens (only there are  not the antibiotics) for the first 5 weeks. Then for the last two, there is a door to the outside that is left open. Not surprisingly, for birds that have been inside for 5 weeks, none venture through the door to explore. The lack of antibiotics is good, but the chickens are treated in most every other respect just like all the other ones that end up in the grocery store.

    Even fruits and vegetables are still grown as industrial monocultures. Organic just limits the herbicides and pesticides. They still truck in (at great fuel costs) organic fertilizers and organic pesticides... because growing a huge field of one thing is a huge bullseye to pests. And take a look at where the organic things you buy are from -- to make sure we get fresh produce year-round, a lot of it is shipped from far, far away...

    It's not sustainable, and that's going to be a problem. (It is a problem, actually, we're just blinded to it.)

    -Cheryl

  • Good question (0 / 0)

    I always thought that Oregon Tilth was the gold standard for organic certification, maybe because it's been around so long (1973) or because California has been in it's sphere of influence since forever also.

    Here's the link:

    Oregon Tilth

    That said, I just checked the organic dairy we buy, and only one is certified by Oregon Tilth, which is disappointing. Needless to say, the organic fruit we buy is not OTCO. USDA only. And some by an organization called Quality Assurance International. Some dairy by an organization called American Humane Association, certified Free Farmed. So who knows. All of this proves your point.

    The OT website has a paper on their website with the USDA organic standards (called the National Organic Program standards).

    It would be nice to know that we're not wasting our money on this stuff.

  • My policy is as follows: (0 / 0)

    -buy as close to home as possible, even if it means conventional (tho' we have a local dairy where I can get organic milk, cream, and butter and a local grass farm for chicken and beef so I don't have to worry about dairy or meat).

    -if it's not local, get organic first if it looks fresh and is from closer than the conventional.

    Local does trump organic for me, although my take on Michael Pollan is that although big organic is not ideal, it's still better than conventional. I would love to have one definition and valid certification but know this is increasingly unlikely.

    I shop at a family farm that is not certified because of the expense and paperwork - I go to church with the owner and trust her when she tells me her apples weren't sprayed. I also recently bought conventional Fuji apples from Pennsylvania instead of the organic ones from New Zealand. I try to think on my toes when I'm at the grocery store. I'm very much looking forward to May when my CSA membership means I'll get boxes of organic, local produce each week!

    Oh, and we are spending lots of money on food, less on other things. Both DH and I are committed to this choice.

Permalink | 8 comments